I’m sitting at the Martinique airport, perched on an abandoned information desk. There aren’t nearly enough seats in the arrivals hall, and this seems like as good a spot as any. Yesterday was busy: laundry done, boat cleaned, provisions restocked. JACE is ready for the next phase.

It doesn’t take long before my sister’s son Johannes and his girlfriend Johanna emerge from the crowd. And no — matching first names were not a selection criterion in their relationship. Anyway, I think of them simply as JoJo.

Their journey from Munich was easy enough: a short hop to Paris and a nine-hour nonstop from there. It helps that Martinique is part of France, and thus the EU, which mercifully eliminates most immigration nonsense.

They’re excited, and soon our taxi drops us at the small marina where JACE awaits her new crew. After a quick tour and dinner ashore, they settle into the master cabin aft (I prefer the forward cabin). Then it’s Bescherung — Christmas comes early. They’ve brought spare parts for JACE and my favorite Christmas cookies for me, home-baked by my dear sister Bini. Such a sweetheart.

Day 1 – Easing In

JoJo have never been on a sailboat, let alone experienced Caribbean trade-wind conditions. So we take it easy. Just an hour’s downwind sail inside the protected bay of Fort-de-France. We stop at a beautiful snorkeling spot, then motor around the corner to Anse d’Arlet — a calm, sheltered, and very pretty bay where we spend the night.

Day 2 – First Test

We round the southwestern promontory of Martinique and head straight upwind toward St. Anne. The cape effect hits us hard: wind funneling around the high land accelerates to 25 knots and more, with steep head-on swell. But once we’re around the corner and into more protected waters, we can focus on tacking upwind. JoJo do great — quickly getting the hang of steering and sail handling. And thanks to seasickness patches, nobody gets sick. We’re having a genuinely good time.

Halfway to St. Anne I spot what first looks like two mahi-mahi. On closer inspection, they reveal themselves as two plastic bottles connected by a length of line — fishing gear, being dragged along by us. If that line is around the rudder, we’re fine. If it’s around the prop, we’re not.

As we reach St. Anne, we nervously test the engine. To our relief, it runs fine. We furl sails, find a spot, and drop anchor. Engine off. Masks and snorkels on. We dive to check — and sure enough, the line is tightly wrapped around the prop and shaft. How it even still ran is a mystery.

Armed with fins and bread knives, we start cutting and peeling away bit by bit. It’s exhausting work. The polypropylene line has melted and fused into a hard collar around the shaft. Dive after dive, we saw, pull, curse, and repeat. Eventually, the last stubborn piece comes free. Our first real adventure ends with success — and a great deal of relief for the skipper.

Day 3 – Weather Whims

We sail south to St. Lucia. On paper, it should be an easy broad reach, maybe even a chance to fly the colorful gennaker. But the weather has other ideas. The wind dies, and a black wall rolls in from the east. Just in time we drop sails and start the engine as torrential rain and gusts of 25–30 knots hit us. It’s short-lived, but the wind never really returns. Grey skies linger.

We motor on and eventually clear into St. Lucia at Marigot Bay. Too many fruity drinks at happy hour and dinner ashore help compensate for the wet day.

Day 4 – Making Our Own Highlights

The weather remains unsettled: grey skies, frequent showers, little wind. But JoJo take it in stride as we motor south and pick up a mooring below the famous Pitons. We create our own highlight: our local fixer, Clive, finds us two small fresh bluefin tuna, which quickly become a spectacular BBQ dinner. So good.

Day 5 – Up the Piton

The morning starts wet but rebounds quickly. As soon as the sun breaks through, we snorkel at one of my favorite spots, followed by lunch and a quick visit ashore. Then comes the big adventure: climbing Petit Piton.

At 750 meters, it’s steep — and at least half the route involves scrambling on all fours, using rocks, ropes, roots, and negotiating a few technically tricky sections. After two sweaty hours, we reach the top. The views are stunning. JoJo launch their drone and capture some truly wild footage.

The descent is faster but messy. We’re filthy by the time we get back. As if on cue, the first rain shower since morning hits just as we arrive aboard. Perfect timing. Dinner is tuna again — this time as a curry — followed by an early night. Exhausted and very happy.

Day 6 – Learning Curve

After another rainy night, we leave the Pitons behind — and with them the dark clouds clinging to the island’s southern peaks. As JACE dries out, a steady breeze fills in. Johannes is eager; sails go up, engine off.

Close-hauled under full sail, we cruise north in the protected lee of St. Lucia. A few glorious hours later we reach Rodney Bay. By now JoJo know enough that I declare myself “just a passenger” and ask them to bring JACE safely to anchor on their own. They do — with only a few gentle reminders. Uncle Andy’s sailing school seems to work.

Rodney Bay is perfect for shopping. We restock provisions, clear out of the country, and celebrate with a fantastic Indian dinner.

Day 7 – Confidence

Today we cross back to Martinique. It’s a 25-mile open-water passage, and the sun is finally fully in charge again. We luck out with due east wind at 18–25 knots and only moderate swell. This is JACE’s element.

At seven to eight knots we cruise north. We invent a helming competition — who can sail the longest distance in a given time — and, like I did a week earlier, make the crossing in just under four hours. Batteries full, water made underway, spirits high. I’m happily “just a passenger” again as JoJo strike the sails and drop anchor in Anse d’Arlet — turtles around us, drone in the air, sundowner drinks as the sun sets.

Life feels very full onboard right now. Time flies, and it’s hard to believe we have only two days left together. We’ll make the most of them. I’m sure of it.