Saying goodbye to Greg is hard. We had such a great week together. We’re in Soufrière on the southwestern side of St. Lucia, JACE swinging on a mooring below the famous Pitons, and we’re standing on the town quay with Greg’s taxi waiting.
But I’m getting ahead of myself. Where were we? Ah, right — Cumberland Bay, St. Vincent. And yes, the yellowfin tuna. Dinner was indeed a winner: curried carrot rice on the side and two fat tuna fillets seared to perfection on the BBQ, still pink in the middle. We savor every bite and enjoy a wonderful evening in the cockpit.
We get up early, have a quick breakfast, and ready the boat. It’s a longer sail today and we want to get underway. For the first hour we motor through the lee of the high island with variable winds. Near the northern cape things stabilize and we set up our winning sail combo: first reef in the main, full staysail, and half a genoa.
JACE loves this configuration. With a strong and still easterly breeze, we fly again — even beating yesterday’s speed and averaging almost eight knots over the 33 miles to St. Lucia. The weather is improving too: no rain, lots of sun. Approaching St. Lucia from the south means steering for hours toward the silhouette of the twin Pitons. These massive volcanic plugs formed when lava cooled and solidified inside the vents of long-dormant volcanoes.
The area around the Pitons offers incredible underwater sights. We snorkel in a couple of different spots, admiring the unique landscape.
And the dinner extravaganza continues: more BBQ’d yellowfin tuna, this time with bok choy and an Asian twist. So good.
And this is how we close out our week together. Good food, good cocktails, good company. Lots of music, lots of talking, and simply enjoying our time. Greg parts with a comment that makes me very happy: “Selfishly, I hope you won’t sell JACE, so I can come again next year!” Well, if it comes to that, I will hold you to it, my friend.
And so I wave him goodbye as his taxi pulls away. Solo again.
The boat feels quieter now. Not lonely — just different.
But no time to get sentimental. Back aboard I throw off the lines; the anchorage here is a bit rolly and I want calmer waters. Just an hour north is Marigot Bay, a completely landlocked narrow cut. I’ve been here many times and love it: calm, tropical, yet always with a cooling breeze.
Over the next two days I catch up on work with early morning calls to Europe and take care of a few small boat projects. I finally replace the davit buttons (the switches that raise the dinghy), service the freshwater pump, go shopping, and clear out of St. Lucia. By now I’ve moved to Rodney Bay, where the shopping is excellent and I can restock bread, meat, and even yogurt — not something you can take for granted here.
The wind continues to blow unusually easterly and quite strong. I don’t want to miss the chance. So on Wednesday, after a 6 a.m. work call, I clear JACE for battle and head to Martinique. The same trusty sail combo works its magic again. Just 3.5 hours later I sail into Grande Anse d’Arlet on Martinique’s southwest corner and anchor in this picturesque bay.
On Friday my nephew Johannes and his girlfriend Johanna arrive. I’m looking forward to having them aboard and showing them this beautiful lifestyle. But first — boat cleaning and laundry.